London Calling: Alhambra

In August I fulfilled a dream: I spent four days in Granada, Spain, and visited the ancient citadel of the Alhambra, with its palaces and gardens. The town was fascinating and beautiful as well - more on that another time - but the only reason for the visit was the Alhambra; ever since seeing photos, when I was still at school, of its water gardens, and hearing

little bits of its history, I had wanted to go, so when I had the opportunity (well - made the opportunity ;) ), I took it.

Having heard horror stories about day-long queues, I had booked my ticket ahead of time, and caught one of the first buses up the hill, while it was still relatively cool, but I still only made it into the second group allowed into the Nasrid Palaces. I spent some time wandering in the gardens beforehand,

discovering beautiful places of calm and quiet and long early morning shadows and the sound of plashing water. When it was finally my turn to walk down that shadowed entrance way and through the ancient doors I found I had tears in my eyes, and had to laugh at myself to banish them.

The Nasrid Palaces are beautiful mazes of courtyards, halls, intricately carved windows, columns, flowing water, cool tiled floors... everywhere your eyes turn there is something beautiful to see, and the sound of the constantly flowing water is more than pleasing to the ears; it seems to actually cut some of the heat from the air. The rooms are peaceful and shadowed and cool; many of the courtyards are bright and singing with light and heat.

The Courtyard of Lindaraja, on the left, is shady and cool; the Courtyard of the Lions, below, is one of the most famous areas within the Nasrid Palaces, and still contains the original lion fountain. The slender pillars at one end, holding aloft the stone canopy which shades the shallow channels of water, reminded me of a grove of palm trees.

After leaving the Nasrid Palaces one comes out into the Partal; gardens and pools arranged on many levels, overlooking the city below. By the time I entered the Partal it was the middle of the day and very warm - over forty degrees - but it was still a pleasant place to wander, and everywhere, everywhere, the restful sight and sound of water.

I then left this part of the complex, and walked over to the Generalife, a summer palace and retreat of the court. I hadn't known it, but this was what I had been waiting so long to see - one of the water gardens there was instantly recognisable as the one in the photograph that I had seen when I was twelve.

The gardens of the Generalife are so beautiful as to be indescribable. I can tell you what they look like; show you photos - my best photos, chosen from the multitude I took that day - but it will still not come close to the beauty of those gardens.